Historians attribute the first major collaboration in contemporary fashion to the 1999 collection of two streetwear brands Supreme and DC Shoes. Then comes Karl Lagerfeld and H&M… They are not the first, but they are the most resonant. However, they have little to do with today’s self-industrialized collaborations. Because new initiatives on the rise are the gathering of competitors! Okay but why? What are their gains from this or their contribution to the industry? Can you really exist in the fashion world if you are not part of these strategic partnerships?
nowadays, everyone is after producing together and expanding their sphere of influence. Even Julia Fox, who swept the popular culture world in the first quarter of 2022, and Anna Delvey Sorokin, who was the subject of the Netflix series, announced that they would cooperate. We may have been disappointed when we found out that the reason they ultimately got together was just to record a podcast because we thought they were up to something bigger was crazy, but in the end, not everyone is Gucciaga or Fendace! These close encounters are no different than David Bowie and Queen recording music together with Madonna and Britney Spears. Let’s get a little more serious. Samsung’s production of parts for Apple, Google’s partnership with Apple… These brands are the most well-known names in the world today. They manage the economy, culture and today, and also pave the way for forward growth.
Gucci x Adidas
From this perspective, why would it be so strange for two rival fashion brands to come together? In the early days when collaborations emerged, the aim was to democratize high fashion, to make it more accessible. Today, the goal is to dominate social media, seduce Gen Z and create a new subculture.
In the end, Sebla Refiğ Devidas, Beymen Import Women’s Brands Purchasing and Product Director summarizes the sentence that forms the core of all these collaborations: “Collaborations are the most effective way to increase the awareness and value of the brand by reaching the new generation through social media.” Think of all those brands that still exist in the fashion world but don’t have much of a glamor. The reason for many is not less talented design directors.
DATA DOES NOT LIE
According to the research company LYST, if you want to be mentioned, you have to cooperate. Even if you do not follow them and do not make a special research about them, these brands appear in social media somehow. Think about it, Matthew Williams’ transition to Givenchy was a sensation. What has changed since he was appointed head of the fashion house? Nothing. Williams continues to work as usual, but like Balenciaga and Gucci, he’s not rocking the internet with new news every week. This pushes Givenchy to the bottom of the most popular brands category. Crocs, NorthFace, adidas, Simpsons, especially Balenciaga and Gucci do not waste a day. Yes, Burberry is very popular, Riccardo Tisci is very popular. However, none of the products or collections Tisci made at the well-established British fashion house created long lines in front of the stores, until the limited edition capsule collection launched with Supreme in March. Do you know that the products are sold out all of a sudden? Just like Balenciaga x Crocs.
The Lyst Index describes the rate at which brands are searched on Google and mentioned on social media at the end of each quarter. The reason why seven of the top 10 brands at the top of the list are popular is basically divided into two. Engage in a Fortnite (game world) or TikTok (social media); ie investing in digital. Two, of course, collaborations. The interesting detail about the second 10 in the continuation of the list is as follows. Investing in social responsibility projects and opening a new store in offline channels, dressing a star in the award ceremony. That’s why these are the most important prophetic collaborations of all trend analysts for 2022. The most effective way to make brands visible.
One of Virgil Abloh’s famous sayings was: “A fashion designer should not limit himself to just designing clothes.” He was very confident that the consumer always wanted the new, needed special ingredients.
Zeynep Tosun, “Thanks to collaborations, unique products and interesting designs can be created. Because there is always only one line on which a brand travels, but the juxtaposition of two means different possibilities and innovations. Since these partnerships are always short-term and have less production, they are also emotionally valuable.” He argues that more people should come together and produce together, not only in the textile industry, but in every different discipline.
“COMPETITIVENESS” IN THE WORLD OF FASHION
Tiffany and Supreme (as if Supreme’s purpose was their collaboration) The joint production of Kim Kardashian’s brand Skims and Fendi is one of the most talked about lately . We frequently feature collaborations on the ELLE pages, but this time we focus on artistic collaborations in a different field.
The concept may be new to the fashion world. But business circles have been using it for a long time. The term was originally coined by Novell CEO Ray Noorda. Then, of course, it falls into the language of the academy.
The word is not very common in our language yet, but it is derived from ‘coopetition’ (competition and cooperation), which is the combination of the words competition and cooperation in English. Economists say: “If you don’t have a competitor, you’re in trouble.” They argue that this is the way to win. At first glance, you might think that Gucci and adidas are not in the same league. One is a luxury ready-to-wear brand, and the other is a sports institution that shapes street style. But at the end of the day, the two competitors competing in the lists of analyst companies such as Lyst, such as the most popular brands / most searched brands on the internet. The purpose of competition is to produce innovative solutions together. Learning together and solidarity are at the heart of it. Recall that Dries Van Noten invited couture master Christian Lacroix for the Spring/Summer 2020 collection. You can think of them as two designers at opposite poles of each other. However, the harmony they captured in the collection was unique, the imagination they created at different ends was priceless.
“Fashion is a sector that adapts the fastest to the course of the world, even one step forward. In a world where boundaries are discussed, transparency and authenticity are spoken, I think that an ambitious fashion brand draws its strength from collaborations, walking side by side with new ideas, and a stance that is inclined to inspire and give,” says Gülden Yılmaz .
Koton is one of the most cooperating brands in the Turkish market. Melis Ağazat, Dilek Hanif, Bora Aksu, Hakan Yıldırım does not avoid coming together with names and brands that are in the fashion system. (I suggest you take a closer look at our cover shoot. A collaboration collection is dedicated to the Koton and Melis Ağazat collection.)
ARE COLLABORATIONS REQUIRED FOR A CIRCULAR ECONOMY?
Lyst’s analysis and Business of Fashion’s fashion ecosystem expectations for 2022 support each other. BoF says there will be a serious change in the wardrobes of consumers this year. This shift isn’t just about moving away from athleisure. Last month, we mentioned that hedonistic shopping habits will settle on these pages. Exclusive designer collaborations are an example of this. One of the things that emphasizes that change is inevitable is data. When brands follow consumer trends, they come across three paths. Local, metaverse and collaborations. World-famous big brands can take the more local one with them. We saw one of the most recent examples of this at Bulgari. Bulgari and Parisian contemporary fashion brand Casablanca collaborate on a fun and ultra-chic Serpenti. If you remember, Bottega Veneta carried out another local cooperation project with Italian craftsmen last year. The aim was to contribute to the Italians’ perspective on design and art, to take them to the next level.
Another name that frequently collaborates with high fashion brands is Moncler; Valentino, Simone Rocha, Craig Green are constantly introducing a new collection to the market, inviting both the rising values of the fashion world and well-established brands. So what happened as a result? The last time he had managed to increase his profits by as much as 30 percent! The excitement of the unexpected.
LOGOMANIA!
Whenever we think that this current is left behind, it somehow returns. It has become an integral part of their collaboration lately. Seeing adidas or Balenciaga on Gucci bags, the fact that the Fendi collection is actually no different from the usual Versace pieces, the Skims collection being marketed entirely as Fendi… It is the easiest way to show that you have a special series collection, as well as creating confusion in the consumer about who the collection belongs to. Because the purpose of cooperation is not to do it silently, but to make it stand out.
UNEXPECTED ENCOUNTERS
Mugler x Jimmy Choo – The launch of the collection coins with the return of stilettos. This is the main reason for the excitement around the products. This capsule collection presents the sexy and powerful femininity that is the focus of both rivals in a single collection. Sandra Choi, creative director at Jimmy Choo, said, “We may be rivals, but we both speak a common language. We have had the same values since the first day we were established, but it is imperative to transfer them to the new generation,” he summarizes the main idea of all these collaborations. Mugler X Jimmy Choo
Manolo Blahnik x Birkenstock – Whatever Fendace is, this is a great partnership on the same scale for the shoe world. with Carrie in “Sex and the City” and “And Just Like That”, I’m sure you’ve also seen the unexpected hit of the streets, the Birkenstock sabers. Now imagine the two combined in one product. Susan Sontag would want Burberry x Supreme – Announced with the arrival of Supreme’s new creative director, Tremaine Emory, this capsule collection was designed with the ‘more is purple e’ mentality. Essential pieces you might have in your closet make Burberry’s iconic plaids more accessible. That’s why the collection was sold out instantly and subsequently fell on the black market.
Burberry x Supreme
Kanye x Gap x Balenciaga – Gucci and Balenciaga had hacked each other. Versace and Fendi had changed the helm. The juxtaposition of the trio of Kanye, Gap and Balenciaga is not mentioned as a collaboration in the literature. In addition, it is another matter that fashion houses cooperate so much and avoid calling the process cooperation. Anyway, this time it’s called the Kanye and Gap collection designed by Balenciaga. In the days when it was talked about that the glory of Gap in ready-made clothing was lost, the pieces were suddenly sold out and sold out.
LUXURIOUS MEETING OF SPORTS
Gucci x Adidas – Exquisite Gucci titled this collection by Alessandro Michele. At the end of last year, the first news of this collaboration, in which we saw a wedding dress with the adidas logo, fell on the internet as a gossip. However, at this time, adidas’ collection with Prada was first served. While there is talk that there may be a misconception, then boom! We finally met this Gucciadidas universe with the presence of Rihanna at Milan Fashion Week, where the Autumn/Winter 22 collections were introduced.
Gucci’s retro-chic style meets adidas’ Gazelles. Gucci logos appeared on sneakers, and Adidas logos appeared on ready-to-wear products. The adidas symbol was written on the collar of the blazers, and the name of Gucci was written under it. “I want the clothes to act as an imaginary mirror,” Michele said after the collection. It collided different universes. Exotic created a new order!
Ami Paris x Puma – Ami Paris, unlike other brands, is still relatively small in scale. While the fan group is expanding with firm steps, it is also aware that it needs to expand its sphere of influence quickly. That’s why he joined forces with another sportswear brand, Puma. He brought together minimal and basic pieces with innovative fabrics and tailor touches unique to AMI workshops.
Miu Miu x New Balance – Miuccia Prada redesigned the 1980s cult New Balance 574 sneakers for the Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2022 collection, integrating it with the brand’s legacy. A classic for over 30 years, specially designed and reinterpreted for sports, this shoe has become a typical part of Miu Miu’s rebellious luxury style.
Text: Aykun Taşdöner
Photos: IMAXTREE.COM
Retrieved from ELLE Turkey April 2022 issue.
